The Buckle Church (Tokalı Kilise) is famous for its breathtaking, rare lapis lazuli blue frescoes. Located within walking distance from the center of Göreme in Cappadocia, it sits right outside the main exit of the Goreme Open Air Museum.
Important Ticket Tip: You do not need a separate ticket for this site. After exploring the main cave churches of the open air museum, walk down the hill toward the parking area and look for the stone stairs on your right leading up to the Buckle Church.
Layout of the Buckle Church
The church consists of three distinct sections carved into the rock:
- The Old Church (Entrance): A tunnel like barrel vaulted space featuring a massive 28 part ceiling narrative of the life of Christ.
- The New Church (Main Hall): A wider, grander space built later using expensive lapis lazuli blue paint, real gold and silver.
- The Lower Chapel: A small subterranean chapel located down the stairs on the left side of the entrance.
1. The Entrance & Old Church
Before moving into the main hall, examine the wall paintings at the entrance section. On the left wall, you will see blue paintings depicting local saints alongside Emperor Constantine and his mother Saint Helena holding the True Cross.
The largest portrait here depicts Saint Hieron, a local Cappadocian martyr shown in military armor holding a shield and spear. Though he was not a soldier in life, he is depicted as one to symbolize his courage during the Roman persecution of Christians.
The 28 Part Ceiling Narrative
Looking up at the vaulted ceiling, you will see six parallel rows containing 28 distinct biblical scenes. This is the most complete visual narrative of the life of Christ in Cappadocia. To follow the story chronologically, start from the top rows and work your way down:
Top Rows: Early Life & Childhood
- Top Right Row (Left to Right): The Annunciation (Archangel Gabriel visiting Mary), the Visitation (Mary hugging pregnant Elizabeth), Trial by Water, Journey to Bethlehem and the Nativity (Birth of Jesus).
- Top Left Row (Left to Right): The Three Wise Men, Massacre of the Innocents under King Herod, Flight to Egypt and the Murder of Zechariah.
Middle Rows: Ministry & Miracles
- Middle Right Row (Left to Right): Elizabeth hiding baby John, John the Baptist as an adult preparing the people, Baptism of Jesus in the Jordan River and the Wedding at Cana.
- Middle Left Row (Left to Right): Miracle of Turning Water into Wine, Calling of the Apostles (Peter and Andrew on a fishing boat), Miracle of the Loaves and Fish, Healing the Blind Man and the Raising of Lazarus.
Bottom Rows: Passion & Resurrection
- Bottom Right Row (Left to Right): Triumphal Entry into Jerusalem, the Last Supper (with Jesus sitting at the far left end), Betrayal of Judas and the Trial of Jesus before Pontius Pilate.
- Bottom Left Row (Left to Right): Simon of Cyrene carrying the Cross, the Crucifixion, Descent from the Cross, Entombment, Empty Tomb with Mary Magdalene and the Anastasis (Resurrection and Rescue of Righteous Souls).
2. The New Church & Lapis Lazuli Frescoes
To create the entrance into the New Church, ancient carvers had to destroy part of the Old Church. This larger hall features no central domes, leaving expansive flat surfaces for grander frescoes.
The deep blue pigment used throughout this space was made from ground lapis lazuli imported all the way from Afghanistan, making it exceptionally valuable and rare in Byzantine Anatolia.
Main Apse & Ceiling
- The Ceiling: Features a large fresco of the Ascension of Jesus surrounded by scenes depicting the Mission of the Apostles.
- Main Apse Recess: Depicts a detailed Crucifixion scene including the two thieves crucified alongside Christ. Below it are post crucifixion scenes including the Descent from the Cross, Entombment, Resurrection and the Myrrh Bearers.
- Pillar Arches: The ceilings behind the pillars display theologians and church fathers in white robes decorated with black crosses, representing leaders from the first seven Ecumenical Councils.
Side Recesses & The Seraphim Angel
- Left Small Recess: A portrait of the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus.
- Left Large Recess: Depicts Christ surrounded by angels. Look closely at the angel on the lower left side: this is a Seraphim angel drawn with six wings (two covering the face, two covering the feet and two for flying), representing the highest order of angels in Byzantine theology.
- Upper Left Ceiling: Contains scenes of the Annunciation, Nativity and the Three Wise Men.
The Panoramic Life of Christ
A continuous panorama of paintings runs along the middle of the walls across the entire church:
- Starts on the far left corner with Jesus at age 12 inside the Temple in Jerusalem.
- Continues with John the Baptist, the Baptism of Jesus, calling the first disciples and the Marriage at Cana.
- Extends across the pillar corners with miracle scenes including the Healing of the Withered Hand, Healing of the Dropsy, Healing of the Palsy and the Raising of Lazarus.
- Concludes on the right side with the Last Supper.
- The arches above this panorama depict the First Seven Deacons of Jerusalem.
3. The Hermit Cave & Lower Chapel
Before exiting back out into the sunlight, notice two cave openings near the right side of the entrance:
- Hermit’s Cave: A small room with soot blackened walls where an ascetic monk once lived in isolation.
- Subterranean Chapel: Follow the stone stairs leading downward into a compact subterranean space. Here you will find carved support columns, an altar, a small holy water basin and several floor tombs.
After exploring the Buckle Church, consider pairing your visit with our guide to Kaymakli Underground City to discover how early Christians lived beneath the ground.